This season’s Autumn/Winter makeup plays a big part in accenting your fashion look. This may require different textures in products, for example foundations need to be fuller coverage than in the summer and either add moisture if it’s dry skin or shine control if oily. This may involve special primers or finishing products.
To really be on-trend, textures of eyeshadows and lipsticks need to be slightly more matte and you’ll need a wider pallet of neutrals for the cheeks compared to the brighter tones of the summer.
The key to winter makeup is precision and practise.
This is easiest done at your leisure, so enjoy experimenting and creating new looks. Practise when you have some spare time, or when you are able to enjoy getting ready for a special night out, to allow plenty of time for your new makeup look.
1. Goth is back! – This is one of two key striking looks for the season. The main component is definitely the lips creating a full, velvet or matt finish of plums, burgundy’s and cherries. You can vary the tone of your lip based on your complexion. For example: Caucasian skin tones can use a softer berry while African/Caribbean tones will definitely need the deep plum with dark undertones.
Lip shaping is crucial. Use waterproof liners and go outside the line or accentuate the upper lip at the cupids bow. To hold this strong colour, you should base up with liner or lip primer, apply your lipstick, press into the lips, press your lips into a tissue, and then reapply the lip colour again. This will help to give an undertone of the dark, goth shade, that even if the top coat fades, this won’t.
Along with this key lip colour, this season’s eyes are in blacks and slate greys with matte textures. Liquid and gel liners can be used under shadows to create an even darker base, but will definitely be used in the water line both on the upper and lower lashes. A softer interpretation would be to go with matte grey shadows, but black liner is still essential.
The complexion and blush areas need to be kept very clear and neutral. You need full coverage of skin tone so concealer and foundation are crucial. Finishing powders or anti- shine products because any shine or shimmer on the skin will not go with this look. Contouring can work and blushers need to be kept nude with brown undertones from either the pale to the rich depending on your ethnicity.
You just have to style it out.
What I mean by this is, firstly, choose a red with an undertone that you know will suit you. The easiest way to do this is to think about what is normally your favourite lip colour.
For example, if you wear a lot of pinks, then go for a pink under-toned red. If you wear a lot of peaches, go for a coral, peach undertone etc. Alternatively, remember, if you do buy a red lipstick, and it’s not the perfect tone, blend with one of your summer favourite undertones to just compliment your skin tone.
The red lip sin is bleeding. This can be avoided by making sure the skin around the lip is super moisturised, exfoliate this area up to three times a week, and a trick is to take your eye cream (as well as all of your facial serums) around the circular muscle of the lips. With your makeup rituals, base right up to your lips and over with your concealers, foundations and powders as a line won’t bleed if it is matte. Before painting and for long wear, using the same application technique as the goth lip above.
This strong, vibrant lip shade can be co-ordinated with the same tone in a nail varnish, or for a very modern look, go to a nude on the nails. The eyes, although natural, are still structured. Ie: concealment is crucial so that your eye lid and under-eye lid are the same elegant. Blush in general is neutral, but can carry a little bit more warmth on the apple. Plus, at the end of your makeup you could always gently dab some of your red lipstick with your fingertips onto the apples only of the cheeks and partially into the nude socket line of the eye for an almost snow-white freshness to pull the look together.
3. Bronzed Goddess – Winter bronze shades are probably the easiest party look and they can work day to night as the warm coppers and ambers of the metallic bronze family help to make the teeth and the eyes look whiter and brighter.
This is one of the only looks that can either be worn on your natural skin tone or, if a little bit of warmth is required, prepare the night before/ a couple of times a week with an overnight tan. Your aim here is not to look like you’ve been in the sun, but to look like you have naturally got a skin tone that it is one or two shades darker than yourself.
For the bronzed look, play on two out of the three elements. Ie: bronze liners and shadows with a bronze or golden cheek and a nude or clear lip for high fashion, the lip would look more like its just been balmed or go to a bronze lip with the golden cheek and a nude eye. Don’t play all three areas together and if using for the party season, take the cheek highlighting and shimmers to décolletage, arms, and legs.
4. Winter pastels – Pastels are a very strong trend shade this season and are actually very wearable, but they must be more of a matte or cooler finish rather than the bright and shimmery textures of the summer. On the eyes they range from slate greys, matte lilacs and sultry pinky/mauves to lips of nudes with barely there hints of sugar almond almost matte textures.
Peaches can also be used but the key is that they are a muted peach with no gold or shimmer. To keep this look on trend you need to be tonally balanced with your key accent colour on all three areas, the eyes, the lips and the cheeks. It needs to go onto a matte complexion and if you use any highlighting it should be of cooler, silvery undertones to compliment this cool pastel look.
So, what can you grab from your existing makeup collection, from last year’s trends, and what application tricks can you use to just quickly go into a more fashionable look for the season?
Firstly, increase complexion cover. This can be done by layering any existing products or stepping up.
For instance if you love BB and CC creams, then either add concealers and finish with a powder to give that more matte and smooth finish, or step up to foundation. While you may not have worried about concealment on lids and lips in the summer, this is a must to base up for the winter look.
Brows are definitely thicker, so you may need to invest in brow serums and most likely a thicker pencil. If this seems too scary with your present colour, then go down a shade to create the thicker look which will look softer and more wearable.
Mascaras and liners are crucial for shaping and on a daily basis should be applied most on the upper lashes. Liners should be used for everyone in the upper lash/lid water line and between the upper lashes, even if not using an actual line to create luscious thickness. Accent colour should be taken from a pallet of red, plums, or dusky pastels and to create a quick look are best led by the lips. This is because a lip colour can also be blended on the cheek and the eye in one of these new shades and can give a quick and easy interpretation of the more technical looks that require more time.
Reapplication of this key colour for a constant, groomed look is key and a continually matte finish complexion all day is crucial. These are the two key things to check but this look can be created quickly, can be worn easily on weekends as well as for work, just get the tone of the lip right and then everything else will follow.