A recent question came in to #AYBNI from a lady in her 40’s who has stubborn pigmentation and religiously doesn’t sunbathe but hates being pale and wanted to know what I would advise.
This is an increasingly common concern for the majority of people nowadays. Not just due to increased sun temperatures, overseas holidays etc. but also pigmentation which is caused by hormonal changes or imbalances, side effects of medication, genetics and previous sun burn can affect so many of us. Also, we feel the increased pressure from celebrities, magazines and ad campaigns showing 100% even skin tone as the norm – but this is not the norm!
Even celebrities have pigmentation issues that they camouflage with laser and light technologies, by having a make-up artist 24/7 and not authorising a photo without an airbrush touch up.
For your home beauty routine, use products primarily designed to fall into two categories. Your priority active ingredients must be to lessen the pigmentation with peeling and de-clumping ingredients. If you have a more normal skin choose something similar to Alpha H Liquid gold or if you have sensitive/menopausal skin then Elemis Tri-enzyme, Radical or Gatineau Age Benefit. We also have a few new products coming up as this is a definite growing need.
The other set of ingredients that you should focus on is protection from the sun to prevent the melanin cells being over stimulated. This can definitely be done extremely successfully now with UltraSun anti pigmentation factor 50. This combines your day cream with anti-pigmentation ingredients which help lighten the look of the pigmentation, as well as your all day non-deteriorating SPF.
So, if you could use a combination of this in the morning and then the fore-mentioned skincare brands at night, that would be your perfect skin routine.
If you want to take this further, currently the Tria Anti-Ageing Laser can work down deeper into the skin to de-clump the over stimulated pigment cells and can give a further result if you wish to use technology and a clinic procedure at home. Also, we have some other handheld devices that can be easily used at home that mirror salon-style treatments launching over the next year.
To give an instant bronzed look to the skin, stay away from strong self-tans as in one application they can often take with a deeper staining on the pigmented area and then you will have to wait a week for it to fade. However, self-tans can be good if you use the gentler, lower concentration DHA formulas which give a progressive tan effect and can be applied over several nights. If you are clever, you can avoid applying them in the more heavily pigmented areas.
Elemis also have a progressive bronzer for the face. Gel textured tints are an easy quick fix and don’t take any more on the pigmented areas as they have no DHA or self-tan ingredients in them.
A really easy kit that we have at the moment is from Benefit which contains the liquid Hoola which we launched first globally as well as the famous award winning bronzing powder, Hoola. Some of the more natural tints such as Perricone’s no foundation foundation, Josie Maran, Stila’s CC cream or, if you need a bit more coverage, especially with a bit of a matte finish, the Benefit Big Easy will just help to soften the look of the pigmentation without going to full coverage, and the easiest blurring product is definitely the Judith Williams Magic Make-up which you can use either on its own or blend it on top of an existing complexion product to keep the skin looking quite natural through the summer.
If you do need full coverage, things like the Laura Gellar Real Deal or Doll10 Conceal it Concealer as well as the Cover FX pallete are great options.
Also if you prefer more of a liquid finish that is not shiny, consider the Tarte Coverage Concealer.