On a skincare routine for unbalanced skin...

Q. Hi Alison, I've just turned 40 and my skin is awful. I have blackheads on my T-zone but my skin can be dry and oily at the same time. Can you recommend anything? Thank you, Sam.

A. If your skin is out of control and out of balance, I would recommend NV Perricone or Alpha-H skincare ranges.

Alpha-H
You can try the Balancing Cleanser and Balancing Moisturiser to begin with and introduce their signature product Liquid Gold to your routine three times a week in the evening. Start off with these products, and then you can introduce the anti-ageing moisturiser which is enriched with glycolic acid - ideal for using as a night time treatment.

NV Perricone
With this high-end range, your key products will be the Nutritive Cleanser, Face Firming Activator and Face Finishing Moisturiser. These three products are incredible for helping to balance out your skin.

These are not complicated routines but you should see great results.

For problem skin, scarring and fine lines...

Q: I'm 39 years old with combination skin. I still suffer from acne all over my chin and on my forehead. They usually hurt, are big and there's also scarring.

Due to my age, I also see sagging and lines around my eyes. Could you please recommend a course of action so that I look better on my 40th birthday?

Alison: Our Alpha-H range addresses a lot of the issues that you are suffering with, as well as helping to tackle signs of ageing.

What you may be finding difficult is that spot-care ranges are too drying and make your wrinkles look worse, and 'anti-ageing' ranges make your skin look too puffy or oily. However, Alpha-H looks at both these issues together.

View our Alpha-H range.

For oily, dry and blemished skin...

Q: I'm Asian, age 26. Since the age of 15 I have had acne problems. When I came to this country 11 years ago I tried everything but nothing worked permanently. My skin has gone back to being oily, dry and blemished. Although my skin is not dark, it's not clear.

I don't have big spots which I used to when I was 18 but now I have acne on my chin, forehead and especially on my jaw line. They are very painful. Please can you recommend any good product which really works?

Alison: Firstly, this may be something worth mentioning to your doctor in case they can give you some medical advice to help.

You've mentioned using skincare designed to target spots that give great results at first and then later on these seem to worsen. This may be because you've stopped using these products or aren't using them as much, perhaps. Plus, they can dry the skin out or be too harsh after a while. So instead you need to make sure you're using some hydrating formulas to help prevent your skin from drying out.

If you haven't got a routine at home, try Alpha-H Liquid Harmony and the Alpha-H Liquid Gold. Liquid Gold will help to clean out the pores and the blackheads - you only need to use it three nights a week and then you can lessen off to once a week once you start seeing results.

The Liquid Harmony can be used on a daily basis when you feel the spots are coming back - so you can stop using Liquid Gold and switch to this instead. I'd also suggest using the Alpha-H Balancing Moisturiser under a cleanser from the Alpha-H range.

For teenage spots on the forehead and chin...

Q: My son is getting spots on his forehead and chin especially. Neil is 14 and is extremely embarrassed about this. We have tried various products from the chemist but nothing seems to work. He has also been using Tea Tree oil, which doesn't seem to work either. Can you help?

Alison: Obviously he is that very vulnerable age where the spots aren't necessarily caused by a bad skincare routine but by hormones flaring up and causing his oil glands to be overactive.

You say you've used tea tree oil, but have you used the ABC Skinwash, which contains tea tree oil? If you haven't, then this is maybe the most masculine product to use with the easiest application technique - such as using it in the shower. It also comes in big economical sizes.

If you have tried this already, then my next step would be for him to use the Liz Earle Men's Cleanse & Polish system with the cloth for removal, that will also help to knock off the tops of any spots or blackheads. I know Liz's son actually uses this to help with his skin. Plus, if he does need to start shaving, he can use this kit for that too.

If he's very trendy, into fashion and men's grooming mags, feel free to show him a little bit of spot concealer, maybe the one that you use so you don't have to get him a separate one. This could be really great for his confidence. Also, an invisible make-up is self-tan. So you could always try mixing a little bit of this in with a moisturiser one night for him to just tone down the look of the redness and disguise them more. Let me tell you that footballers do wear self-tan - I know, I'm married to one!

For breakouts and dryness on the face...

Q: I'm a 38-year-old who experiences pimples, blackheads and breakouts on my chin and forehead. I've tried all products and the latest is Philosophy which works only for a few months but after that I have oily skin and breakouts again. Please advise me on what to use. I have a combination of oily and sensitive skin.

Alison: When I suffer from this problem I follow a balancing routine. This is as follows: Decleor Cleanser & Toner, Decleor Aromessence Neroli Oil and the Decleor Hydra Floral Moisturiser.

To this, I also add a few other products to help target the breakout areas. So, I'd add Philosophy On a Clear Day Serum underneath the Aromessence and Moisturiser. This should help to fight the spotty areas whilst keeping the skin hydrated.

For acne on the neck and back...

Q: I am a 19-year-old male and have acne over my neck and back. I'm on my second course of tablets from the GP and they are helping but I want to find something else. Sometimes the acne is huge red lumps and sometimes it's white blackheads.

The lumps on my neck are particularly painful and this tends to get me down. Can you please recommend something to ease the swelling and inflammation?

Alison: Firstly you could go back to your doctor because they may be able to prescribe you alternative tablets. Plus, if you explain to your doctor that the lumps are very painful, then they might be able to help you out further.

Secondly, bear in mind that your diet could be having an effect on your skin condition - it doesn't always. So, you could try for a month to leave out very oily food, such as crisps and chocolate, and very acidic food, such as too much fresh fruit - pineapple is particularly acidic.

Thirdly, I can recommend you a skincare routine that, in conjunction with your doctor's advice, could help improve your condition. You've mentioned that acne is appearing on your neck as well as your back. This could also be associated with ingrown hairs caused by shaving.

I recommend Alpha-H Liquid Gold - wiped over the neck and back, three nights a week. Then use the Alpha-H Triple Action Cleanser with the Balancing Moisturiser, which also acts as an exfoliant. You could also use the Micro Cleanse in the shower twice times a week to lift up any ingrown hairs.

For dark under-eye circles and breakouts that lead to scarring...

Q: I'm 29, will be turning 30 this year and I really want to sort out my skin. I have dry cheeks with an oily T-zone and on the hairline area, along with black and white heads on my nose. I'm Asian so the spots I get leave scars on my face and I have dark circles despite drinking so much water and sleeping well. Please advise on a skincare line for my face to bring freshness and to calm down my breakouts.

Alison: I would recommend the Elemis Tri-Enzyme range. So, each morning use the Tri-Enzyme Resurfacing Facial Wash, followed by Decleor Aromessence Neroli Face Oil and Decleor Hydra Floral Moisturiser.

In the evening use the Decleor Balancing Cleanser, followed by the Tri Enzyme Wash and the Decleor Balancing Toner, then use Elemis Tri-Enzyme Resurfacing Serum, as it doesn't remove make-up, and finish with the Decleor Hydra Floral Moisturiser.

For the dark circles around your eyes, I'd recommend, morning and night, applying the Alpha-H Absolute Eye Complex, as this is really good on Asian skin tones.

For instant confidence, as it can make a dramatic difference when you conceal dark circles, I’d recommend Bobbi Brown Creamy Concealer which comes in six shades - you'd be about Medium Dark or Medium Natural. Either use this or the Prescriptives Traceless Skin Responsive Tint - on number four or five levels. It does depend if you want a lighter or full cover finish - if you like wearing make-up, I'd try the Bobbi Brown one, and if you don't then pick the Prescriptives concealer.

For blackheads on the nose...

Q: I was wondering if you could tell me what I could do about blackheads on my nose. They don't seem to be filled with sebum or raised, they just seem to be black marks in the pores. However, I did try squeezing them a lot and wondered if I have pushed the dirt too far down.

Alison: Blackheads on the nose are trapped sebum, which is normally cream in colour. However, when they get trapped in the hair follicle they oxidise, thicken and become blacker. So, when you squeeze them they should come out on to the surface.

Squeezing them is fine as they can be a concern - although only do it once a week. Don't squeeze them if it's painful as you could be bursting them underneath and could cause a skin infection.

It's best done after a shower, hot bath or facial steam as this will open the pores and make it much easier. Plus, make sure you follow with something soothing on open pores, such as Decleor Prolagene Gel as a daily moisturiser.

If you don't want to squeeze them or find that it’s not actually working - it might not, especially if they are deep rooted - then wipe over this area once a day with Alpha-H Liquid Gold. The glycolic acid in this will act to dissolve the blackhead, cleaning out the pore with this liquid. Only apply this to the blackhead area though, as you won't necessarily need it on the whole of the face. Try this every night until the blackhead doesn't appear black any more. Then, continue with a moisturiser, either your own from home or the Decleor Prolagene Gel.

If the blackheads come back, which they will do if you're prone to them, then just repeat the process for a couple of weeks with the Liquid Gold followed by a moisturiser.

For dryness on the face with blackheads on the nose...

Q: I'm 45 years old and had to have a full Hysterectomy last December. I'm now on HRT and have since developed very dry skin on my face. Could you recommend a cream I could use? Also I have deep blackheads all over my nose for years and would like to get rid of them, could you tell me what to use to sort my face out?

Alison: On a weekly basis, you need to use the Philosophy Microdelivery Peel set which contains the Microdelivery Peel with vitamin C crystals and the Microdelivery Peel Rapid Activation. These will be brilliant on both the blackheads and your dryness too.

Plus they will help with the absorption of products from our Clientele Estro-lift line - which would also be perfect for you. These are designed to counteract the side effects of the slowing down of hormones inside. Use as many of these Estrolift products as you like.

The most important products that I would recommend are the facial wash, day cream, the night cream and the serum, which you can use morning and night because I think your skin will need it. Buying them in a kit will probably work out cheaper for you too. I think with this routine, you will feel much happier.

On a cleanser for oily skin prone to breakouts and blackheads

Q. Please can you recommend a good cleanser (I like to use water to wash off make-up etc). I'm 24, have very oily skin, open pores, blackheads, am prone to break outs etc, and really want to get into a good skin care routine. Can't bear moisturiser on my skin during the day as my make-up slides off. Should I be using a night cream to replace not wearing a moisturiser in the day? Thank you.

Alison: I'd recommend the Purity Made Simple Cleanser from Philosophy, which comes in the Philosophy Skincare Set. I think this brand would be perfect for you. This cleanser is really lightweight so you can wash it off, use it in the shower or use it to take off your make-up.

I'm not going to let you get away with not using a moisturiser though! It's so important to use one, I just don't think you've found a good oil-free one yet. I recommend Philosophy Hope In A Jar Moisturiser to use morning and night - it's really light so you shouldn't get greasy skin with it and it should go matte on your skin. It will help to stop the build up of blackheads and get rid of dead skin cells from the surface layer. Using both these products should help to make your skin feel refreshed.

Another product you might like is Cosmetics A La Carte Matte Miracle. You apply this before make-up to stop any shine from coming through.